![]() They cook the concoction in a wood-fired oven to keep in the aroma, then flambé it at your table. All their pasta is "pizza pasta" - cooked normally but finished in a bowl that's encased in a thin pizza crust. It's clearly a proud family operation: Miky (dad), Simonetta (mom), charming Sara (daughter, who greets guests), and the attentive but easygoing waitstaff all work hard. For elegantly presented, top-quality food, with subtle flavors that celebrate local ingredients and traditions, this is my Cinque Terre favorite. Miky is packed with well-dressed locals who know their seafood and want to eat it in a classy environment. Monica offers a free sciacchetrà or limoncello with biscotti if you have my guidebook (closed Wed and Nov–April, tel. Some of these tables snake around the castle, where you'll feel like you're eating all alone with the Mediterranean. For simple fare and a special evening, reserve one of the dozen romantic cliff-side sea-view tables for two. Their lasagne al pesto, “spaghetti on the rocks” (noodles with shellfish), and scampi crêpes are time-honored family specialties. Perched just below Vernazza's castle, this restaurant is run by gracious and English-speaking Monica, her husband Massimo, kind Mario, and the rest of her family. The castle tower looks new because it was rebuilt after the British bombed it, chasing out the Germans (small fee, open daily). This was the town's watchtower back in pirate days, and a Nazi lookout in World War II. Vernazza's castle, which is now a grassy park with great views (and nothing but stones), still guards the town.
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